# Erbil – A Two-Day Guide to the Capital of Iraqi Kurdistan

- Link: https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/asia/erbil-two-day-guide-of-iraqi-kurdistan/
- Published: 2025-11-16T18:11:15+01:00
- Author: Filip Chochół

Ten wpis jest również dostępny w języku:  [⌊Switch to Polski⌉Polski](https://warsawtravelers.pl/azja/erbil-nasze-dwa-dni-w-stolicy-kurdystanu/)

 Table of contents

## Our first contact with Iraqi Kurdistan

So here we are, entering what was probably the most anticipated stage of our motorcycle
trip – and one we wouldn’t have even considered for ourselves not so long ago. For
us, Iraq existed mainly as headlines in the news: war, bombings, maps covered in
red danger zones. More like a place your eyes skip over on a map than a spot you
highlight with a marker thinking, “this will be our next stop.

That changed the moment we started planning our route to Oman. We looked at the 
map, realized we didn’t have many realistic options… and suddenly the obvious thing
hit us: Iraq is literally on the way. Instead of crossing it off immediately, we
started digging a bit deeper – what’s the situation in Iraqi Kurdistan, can you 
actually cross it on a motorcycle, how are other travellers doing it? The more we
read, the less it looked like a “crazy idea” and the more it felt like a challenging
but doable part of the journey.

## Where is Erbil located, and what exactly is Kurdistan?

If your brain still jumps to schoolbook associations like: Mesopotamia, the Euphrates,
the Tigris, somewhere there Babylon – and then a long blank space until “the Iraq
War on TV”… well, you’re in good company. We started with pretty much the same collage
of images rather than an actual, concrete map in our heads.

[Erbil](https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irbil) sits in northern Iraq, roughly between
Turkey and Iran, just a little “below” the Turkish border. It’s a large city – the
capital of a region officially called the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. And here’s where
it gets interesting, because this isn’t “just another province”.

Kurdistan is, in short, a region inhabited mostly by Kurds – a nation without its
own state, living across the borders of several countries: Iraq, Turkey, Iran and
Syria. In the Iraqi part, the Kurds have secured a high level of autonomy: they 
have their own parliament, their own government, their own security forces, their
own flag, their own checkpoints on the roads and their own entry rules. Formally
it’s still Iraq, but in practice it feels a bit like a “state within a state”.

For a traveler, this simply means that when you enter Iraqi Kurdistan, you arrive
in a place that’s run differently, noticeably calmer than the rest of the country,
and much more used to seeing foreigners. A different language on the streets (Kurdish
plus Arabic), different flags flying over buildings, different stories people carry–
but in your passport, the stamp still says “Iraq”.

 [ ⌊Erbil City view over a dense skyline of low-rise buildings in Iraq under a clear blue sky⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-001-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil City view in Iraq: sunny courtyard with white metal gate, stone walls, and pink bougainvillea flowers⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-002.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil City view in Iraq showing a tall clock tower and flags in front of a modern building⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-004.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil City view: white classical building facade with arched entrance and blooming pink flowers⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-003.jpeg)

## How to get to Kurdistan?

Before anyone seriously starts planning a route, we really recommend checking your
own foreign ministry’s travel advisories. As of the time of writing, Poland’s MFA
advises against all travel to the Republic of Iraq, including the Kurdistan Region
of Iraq, so any trip in this direction is a conscious decision made by an adult –
not a “spontaneous weekend in Prague”. In this post we’re simply showing how we 
did it and what the technical options look like from the Turkish side – the safety
side of things is covered separately.

We’re deliberately sticking to routes “from the Turkish side”, because the situation
at other borders (for example the Syrian side) is fluid and heavily dependent on
current politics and ongoing conflicts. These are areas where you need fresh, first-
hand information – not generic advice from the internet.

### Our motorcycle trip from Poland

For us, it all started on August 29, when we left Warsaw on the motorcycle and headed
towards Oman. Iraq — or more precisely, Iraqi Kurdistan – wasn’t a separate “trip”,
but one of the key stages of the whole route. First the classic push through Europe,
then Turkey, which becomes less and less “postcard-like” with each passing day and
more rugged and mountainous.

We entered Iraq from the Turkish side through the [Ibrahim Khalil / Habur border](https://maps.app.goo.gl/qL5GejoqLL8ruueBA)
crossing – the main and busiest land crossing between Turkey and Iraq, located about
10 km from the city of Zakho and roughly 210–213 km from Erbil.

The whole border experience – the crossing itself, the checkpoints, the paperwork,
the conversations during inspections — is a story of its own, and we already have
separate posts about it: [our 🇮🇶 Iraq travel log](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/blog/desert-horizons-2025-part-3-iraq/),
and another entry [🏍️ with the behind-the-scenes logistics](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/blog/desert-horizons-from-poland-to-oman/)
and a big thank-you to the [🤟 partners who helped make this route](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/desert-horizons-2025/)
possible in the first place.

 [ ⌊Motorcyclist with luggage at the Iraq Kurdistan border road near Zakhō taxi sign⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-kurdistan-border-002-scaled.jpeg)

### By plane

For most people, the simplest option is to just fly into [Erbil International Airport (EBL)](https://www.flightsfrom.com/EBL).
It’s the region’s main airport, and as of November 2025 it offers direct connections
to around 30 cities across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and parts of South Asia.

For example, from Turkey you can fly regularly with airlines like Turkish Airlines
and Pegasus on direct routes from Istanbul to Erbil. From Europe, there are also
direct flights – for instance from Berlin (UR Airlines) and Vienna (Austrian). Otherwise,
you can simply connect through major hubs like Istanbul; from Warsaw, Turkish Airlines
sells tickets with a layover there. Return fares usually start at around 550 USD.

### By bus

If you don’t want to drive your own vehicle but still prefer land travel to flying,
there are long-distance buses from Turkey directly to Erbil. Sample data from ticket
sales services show that:

 * Coaches operated by companies such as Lider İstanbul and Özlem İstanbul Turizm
   [run from Istanbul to Erbil.](https://www.obilet.com/en/bus-ticket/istanbul-erbil)
 * the journey takes approx. 16-24 hours (depending on the source and route),
 * Prices start at around $60-70 one way.

We also looked for other sources describing connections from smaller cities in southeastern
Turkey (Mardin, Diyarbakır, Silopi) to Erbil and other cities in the Kurdistan Region,
but this is already a rather dense network of regional carriers.

## Visas and documents

We’ve already broken down the topic of Iraqi visas in detail in our separate guide–
that’s where we send you for the full, [up-to-date step-by-step instructions 📑](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/guides/how-to-get-a-visa-for-iraq/).
Here, we’ll just give you a small “spoiler” and a general overview of how things
work.

When it comes to documents, the absolute minimum usually looks like this:

 * a passport valid for at least 6 months from the planned departure from Iraq,
 * approved e-visa printed out (not in PDF format on your phone),

As of the date of writing, there are two visa systems in Iraq: the federal system
and the Kurdish system.

To make things even more interesting, as of March 1st, 2025, Iraq has phased out
the classic visa-on-arrival for many countries (including EU member states) and 
switched to an e-visa system – you now have to apply online first, then travel. 
At the same time, there is still official information stating that the Kurdistan
Region offers its own visa (either an e-visa or a visa on arrival at the airport)
for citizens of several dozen countries, including EU nationals – Poland included.

What does this mean in practice?

 * If someone plans to visit only Kurdistan, the regional (Kurdish) visa is completely
   sufficient. It’s valid exclusively within the Kurdistan Region and does not allow
   entry to Mosul, Baghdad, or the southern parts of Iraq.
 * If your route goes beyond Kurdistan, then you’ll need a visa that covers the 
   entire country – the federal e-visa, which is also recognized when entering or
   leaving through the Kurdistan Region. In our case, we used the federal visa, 
   and it was accepted without any issues at the land border.

 [ ⌊Iraq Kurdistan passport stamps, including a Visit 30 DAYS border entry stamp dated 09 SEP 2025⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-kurdistan-border-stamps-in-passport-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Iraq Kurdistan Procedures document showing steps for lost vehicle and required documents on paper form⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-kurdistan-border-001-scaled.jpeg)

## Road conditions and vehicle formalities

For a longer, from-the-saddle look at the asphalt, road quality, traffic and what
it’s actually like to ride there [🚗 we’ll redirect you to our separate post (🛣️ that’s where we gathered all the practical tips)](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/asia/road-conditions-in-iraq-our-impressions/).
Here, we’re focusing only on the key facts and the paperwork.

 * **Checkpoints and inspections: **In the Kurdistan Region (KRI), checkpoints are
   a normal part of travel – you’ll see them both at city entrances and along major
   roads between towns. Security officers may ask for an ID, so keep your passport
   handy and be prepared for a few extra questions at larger checkpoints. Do not
   photograph or film military or government infrastructure.
 * **Dirt roads or do we stick to asphalt?** We stuck exclusively to paved roads.
   Outside the main routes, Iraq still has areas contaminated with unexploded ordnance
   and improvised devices – so this is a firm recommendation not to leave designated
   roads or take “shortcuts.” If you spot anything suspicious, don’t touch it. In
   Iraq, the emergency numbers for reporting such findings are 182 (Directorate 
   of Mines) and 115 (Civil Defense).
 * **Closures and detours:** Roads can (but don’t necessarily have to) be temporarily
   closed or subject to additional checks – so plan some buffer time and be aware
   that the route “according to Google” won’t always match reality. And speaking
   of which… Google Maps navigation doesn’t actually work here – but we explain 
   that in detail in the guide we linked above.
 * **If you plan to record your ride** (GoPro/dashcam), remember that filming near
   military or government facilities is prohibited.

### Vehicle documents

The vehicle and its documents are a separate issue. When driving your car or motorcycle,
you must have the following with you:

 * registration certificate,
 * national driver’s license (and international driver’s license-you can read about
   how to obtain one in[ Poland in our guide at this link](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/guides/what-is-an-international-driving-permit-and-when-is-it-needed/)),
 * If the vehicle isn’t registered in your name, you’ll need an authorization letter
   from the owner. For leased cars, this usually means asking the leasing company
   to issue a notarized permission for travel outside the EU / to the specific country.
   [After that, the authorization must be legalized at the Iraqi embassy](https://warsawtravelers.pl/en/guides/iraq-leased-vehicle-legalize-papers/).

## SIM card

From our experience: we bought a physical SIM card at a Zain store in Erbil; our
10 GB package cost around 50 PLN. The day before, just to “reach the city,” we grabbed
a small, cheap package from a random virtual eSIM operator (a few złoty for 1–2 
GB) simply to have maps on the way.

What you should know “officially” if you want to do the same:

 * In Iraq, SIM card registration is mandatory; operators must verify the customer’s
   identity, hence the requirement for documentation and data registration, including
   for foreigners.
 * When issuing a number at the point of sale, [Zain records the data in the MEFS system](https://www.iq.zain.com/en/support/customer-electronic-registration-mefs)
   and directly informs the subscriber that a photograph and fingerprint are being
   taken.
 * To purchase a Zain prepaid card, you will need to present your passport or other
   local identity documents (for tourists – a passport). You may also be asked to
   provide your address of residence.
 * Tourist eSIMs bought online (usually running on Korek/Asiacell/Zain) are convenient,
   but they’re generally more expensive per gigabyte than a local prepaid SIM. As
   a reference point: a 10 GB eSIM from Ubigi costs around 22 USD for 30 days – 
   while [Breezesim charges as much as 89 USD](https://breezesim.com/products/esimg_iq_v2?search=Iraq+&searchIso=IQ&searchHandle=esimg_iq_v2)
   for the same amount. So if you care about costs, a local physical SIM card can
   be much cheaper.

## Where did we stay in Erbil?

We stayed at [Hotel MyFlower 3](https://www.booking.com/hotel/iq/my-flower.pl.html)
on Kirkuk Road, right across from Tablo Mall (two nights for 113 USD, paid in cash).
The hotel has an underground garage, so that’s where we parked the bike. The location
is perfectly fine for a first look at the city and easy to find on the map. There
are a couple of small grocery shops nearby and even one liquor store. The view from
our room was pretty nice too. The only downside was the breakfast – very “school
cafeteria” vibes. Jadzia grabbed a little something to nibble on, but nothing really
appealed to me.

In Iraq (and throughout Kurdistan), hotels very often prefer cash payments – usually
in US dollars. Card terminals do exist, but they often add an extra fee, so it’s
better to treat your card as a backup option rather than your main method of payment.
From our experience: bring dollars with you and don’t count on being able to pay
for everything with a card.

When it comes to hotel standards, one thing worth asking about when making a reservation
is the power supply. Power outages still happen occasionally in the region, which
is why many hotels rely on their own generators or UPS systems. This matters more
than you’d think – in 40-degree heat, the difference between “we have a generator”
and “the AC is temporarily off” can turn a night into a small survival challenge.

The entire Kurdistan Region is currently implementing the Runaki program, which 
aims to provide fully stable 24/7 electricity and gradually phase out private generators.
In practice, many districts of Erbil already have reliable power as of 2025, but
hotels still tend to use backup systems – so it’s worth checking this when choosing
your accommodation.

 [ ⌊Iraq, Erbil Hotel: tall white hotel building with rows of windows beside parked cars and street lamps⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-hotel-002-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil view from a hotel in Iraq, showing modern high-rise towers and a stadium with a clear blue sky⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-hotel-001-scaled.jpeg)

## Eating in Erbil – what, where, and how much

To start with – our absolute must near the Citadel: [Koktel Restaurant](https://maps.app.goo.gl/C2WbsfRiFLDuc6eQA).
We walked in absolutely starving and ended up having a huge, genuinely warm feast–
the kind of hospitality you later tell your friends about. This is our completely
subjective recommendation 😃. And for what you see in the photos, we paid around
17 USD.

 [ ⌊Chef slicing meat on a vertical rotisserie in Erbil Foods, Iraq, with chopped vegetables on the grill tray⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-foods-003-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Iraqi Erbil Foods table with flatbread, chopped salad, and fried falafel on colorful patterned cloth⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-foods-001.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Man holding an orange drink at Erbil Foods in Iraq, with salad and fried snacks on the table⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-foods-002-scaled.jpeg)

The three pillars of Iraqi cuisine are rice, stewed dishes and stuffed vegetables.
Rice – often the local _timman anbar_ variety – is cooked so it stays fluffy, with
a crispy layer at the bottom of the pot called _hikakeh_, which is actually the 
most anticipated part of the meal.

Then come the stews and soups (like fasolia – white beans with meat, harissa with
wheat and poultry, or various lentil soups), and the whole family of dishes like
dolma and kubba: vegetables stuffed with spiced meat and rice, often cooked in a
tomato-and-pomegranate sauce, as well as bulgur or rice shells shaped into balls
or half-moons filled with meat. In many culinary texts, dolma is even described 
as the “most iconic Iraqi dish,” with a long tradition of being prepared and shared
in large batches.

The second icon is _masgouf_ – the famous “Iraqi fire-grilled fish,” usually carp,
slit open and butterflied, marinated with things like lemon and tamarind, then slowly
roasted over glowing wood embers. Aside from that, everyday staples include kebabs,
various Iraqi-style biryani, _maqluba_ (the upside-down pot of rice, vegetables 
and meat), and plenty of flatbreads – the kind you use to scoop up every last bit
of sauce from the plate.

If we narrow it down to the north of the country, where Erbil is located, there’s
also a strong Kurdish influence. Descriptions of Kurdish cuisine highlight the use
of fresh herbs, rice, grilled meats, different versions of _biryani_, and local 
breads, as well as dishes that are essentially Kurdish takes on “Iraqi classics”–
like dolma with lots of pomegranate, kubbe, or herb-rich stews. It explains why 
in Erbil you get both the familiar baseline of Iraqi food and a noticeable local
twist.

How much does it cost? A meal in a budget restaurant in Erbil costs around **10,000
IQD** (about 27 PLN), while a dinner for two in a mid-range place (three dishes,
no drinks) is roughly **31,000 IQD** (around 86 PLN). A bazaar-style kebab will 
be much cheaper.

If you want to order food to your hotel, you can use the Talabat app. You can pay
either in cash or by card (we tested Revolut – it worked, though other options like
Curve may not).

A small side note: although Iraq is a country with strongly conservative customs,
you’ll find liquor stores and even alcohol-serving bars in Erbil and across the 
Kurdistan Region. If you feel like a beer or a bottle of wine in the evening, you
can get one – just keep in mind that payment is usually in cash.

## People and hospitality

We couldn’t go without mentioning how we were received in Kurdistan. It was the 
first country where both of us had this very clear feeling: _“okay, we’ve never 
experienced this level of hospitality anywhere else”_. From the first smiles at 
the border, through the checkpoints, all the way to simple walks around Erbil – 
not once did we feel like walking wallets. We felt more like guests people genuinely
wanted to look after.

We saw literally just a handful of tourists from outside the Middle East. And the
numbers reflect that: most visitors to the Kurdistan Region are Iraqis from other
provinces or people coming from Iran; travellers from Europe or the US are still
a tiny minority. That’s why Western faces here spark curiosity rather than calculation.

This hospitality isn’t some “tourist-friendly politeness”, but something deeply 
rooted in Kurdish culture. For Kurds, a guest isn’t just a visitor – it’s someone
you take responsibility for. In Kurdish tradition, you give them the best you have:
the best seat, the best food, your time and attention. Any language barrier pretty
much disappears, because what matters most is simply the fact that you’re there.

Where does it come from? In short: from history and from the mountains. For centuries,
Kurds lived in communities where welcoming a stranger was a matter of honor. And
honor – alongside hospitality and courage – is one of the core pillars of their 
value system. Add to that the experience of persecution – from arabization to the
mass repressions under Saddam – which, paradoxically, only strengthened the need
for solidarity and empathy toward others. That’s where the famous Kurdish saying
comes from: “We have no friends but the mountains”. That one line sums up their 
history, and why they value anyone who comes to them with goodwill.

In practice, the result is always the same: you feel good there – genuinely good.
Like you’re in a place that wants to get to know you, not take advantage of you.
And that’s probably the biggest surprise of the whole trip.

 [ ⌊Erbil City view in Iraq: a man rides through traffic carrying a cart piled with fresh corn and vegetables.⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-006-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊People in Erbil City view unloading boxed supplies from a car in Iraq market street.⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-007-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil City view in Iraq, busy parking with white taxis and pedestrians near a modern building⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-city-view-005-scaled.jpeg)

## The practical truth about money in Iraq

If you’ve been reading us for a while, you know we’re big fans of handling travel
expenses with a good multi-currency card. In Iraq, that strategy falls apart a bit.
Sure, the tech works – phones work, apps work – but the financial system follows
its own rules here.

If you’re counting on paying by card and using ATMs without any trouble, Iraq will
make you rethink that within a day. It’s still a cash-driven country, and the reason
your card won’t go through isn’t “no terminals” – it’s the way the country’s financial
policy works. [From 2024, the Iraqi central bank ](https://rawabetcenter.com/en/?p=10462)
strongly restricts the flow of dollars, and some local banks have been placed on
the list of institutions subject to US sanctions. In practice, transactions with
foreign cards often simply do not go through.

ATMs that accept foreign Visa or Mastercard cards are extremely rare. Your best 
bet is the Bank of Baghdad – we managed to withdraw cash there (with a fee of about
2.75 PLN), but many other ATMs simply reject foreign cards without any explanation.
That’s why the smartest strategy for travellers is to bring U.S. dollars with you
from home.

And the U.S. dollar is basically a premium currency in Iraq. Hotels, restaurants,
taxi drivers, exchange offices – everyone accepts it. In fact, exchange rates at
local money changers are often better than what your bank would give you, and the
condition of the banknotes matters: crisp, new $100 bills get you the best rate,
while worn $20s or $50s are valued noticeably lower.

Euro? You can exchange it, but the rate is worse. Outside Kurdistan people often
don’t want EUR at all – they prefer USD. And for most small everyday expenses (coffee,
street food, a short taxi ride) you’ll be paying in Iraqi dinars anyway.

And speaking of taxis – there’s no Uber in Iraq, but Careem works perfectly fine,
including in Kurdistan. And the good news: you can pay for your rides directly in
the app with a debit or credit card issued in the EU.

One more thing worth keeping in mind: when leaving Iraq, there’s a legal limit on
how much cash you can take with you – up to 10,000 USD without a customs declaration.
If you’re entering the country with a higher amount, you must declare it already
at the border.

 [ ⌊Bank of Baghdad ATM in a Kurdistan shopping mall, with Arabic and VISA Debit display screens⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-kurdistan-atm-001.jpeg)

## Insurance

One of the trickiest parts of preparing for Iraq was getting insurance. Polish insurers
were very clear: they didn’t want to cover us. For them, Iraq is still classified
as a “conflict zone”, with exclusions for war-related incidents and terrorism. And
since the Polish MFA officially advises against all travel to Iraq, most standard
travel insurance either won’t apply or comes with so many disclaimers that it’s 
basically useless.

[Fortunately, there is a built-in safety net ](https://ziaratplanner.com/iraq-mandates-medical-insurance-for-pilgrims-included-in-visa-cost/)—
at least at the minimum level. The Iraqi government requires every visitor to have
emergency insurance. If you’re entering on a federal e-visa, this insurance is issued
to you automatically, and the provider is Hamraa Insurance. In theory, the policy
covers up to 10 million IQD (about $6,600) for hospitalization, 15 million IQD (
about $10,000) in case of death, and basic medical evacuation. It’s not a full replacement
for proper international insurance, but it does mean you’re not entering the country
completely unprotected.

## Safety – what you need to know

Iraq’s recent history speaks for itself. [As recently as 2014–2017](https://www.wilsoncenter.org/article/kurdistan-and-united-states-isis-defeated-what-happens-now),
the front line against ISIS was just 55 km from Erbil, so any concerns about safety
are completely understandable. And yes – the Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs 
still advises against travelling to Iraq, including the Kurdistan Region. But to
be totally honest: not for a single moment during our stay did we feel unsafe.

From our perspective – and from what we learned on the ground – Erbil is one of 
the safest major cities in all of Iraq. Street crime is virtually nonexistent. After
ISIS was pushed back in 2017, the region stabilised significantly, and today the
biggest real risk is… traffic accidents, because driving can get chaotic.

Checkpoints are simply part of everyday life- you’ll see them at city entrances,
along major roads and near strategic facilities. Every officer we met was polite,
curious and genuinely helpful. We didn’t have a single unpleasant interaction.

When it comes to taking photos, common sense goes a long way. Avoid photographing
checkpoints, military facilities or security personnel unless you’ve been explicitly
allowed to – and yes, that rule really matters here. In Iraq, this isn’t something
people just “let slide”; breaking it can turn into a serious headache very quickly.
It also happens that military buildings sit right next to tourist spots, so it’s
always worth checking what’s in your frame before you hit the shutter.

Tourist-wise, Erbil is easy and surprisingly comfortable – but the borders with 
Turkey and Iran are a completely different story. [Turkey actively patrols parts of the border areas](https://www.rudaw.net/english/kurdistan/250620241)
as part of ongoing operations against the [PKK](https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partia_Pracuj%C4%85cych_Kurdystanu),
and these zones can be sensitive and change quickly. This is not the kind of place
you visit out of curiosity or “let’s see what’s there.” Your best move is simply
to stay away from those regions altogether.

 [ ⌊Iraq Kurdistan flag flying on a tall pole against a clear blue sky, with buildings in the background⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-kurdistan-flag-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Night scene at Iraq’s Checkpoint with cars passing under a checkpoint gate and barriers.⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-checkpoint-scaled.jpeg)

## Climate and weather conditions

When we were riding into Erbil in September, the daytime heat was just brutal – 
that classic, dry oven feel where the asphalt starts to shimmer and you suddenly
appreciate every tiny patch of shade. And that pretty much sums up the region’s 
climate. Erbil has very hot, dry summers and cooler, partly rainy winters. Climate
data shows temperatures ranging from about 3–5°C at night in winter to well over
40°C during summer days; in July and August, average highs often reach 43–45°C, 
and some days push past 45°C.

On a broader scale, that’s pretty much the climate pattern across most of Iraqi 
Kurdistan: winters (December–March) bring rain, and the mountains can even get a
decent amount of snow; spring is mild, green, and pleasant; and summer through early
autumn is almost entirely rain-free and extremely dry. Regional climate descriptions
emphasize that rainfall is concentrated in winter and spring, while in summer and
early autumn rain is rare, and temperatures in some cities (like Dohuk) regularly
average around 42°C at the peak of the season.

If we’re talking about “when to visit”, then for standard city exploring (Erbil 
+ nearby spots, without chasing snowy mountain peaks), the most comfortable seasons
are spring and autumn – roughly March to May, and then from late September through
the end of October/November. During these periods, daytime temperatures usually 
sit around 20–25°C, and the nights stay pleasantly mild.

## What to see in Erbil?

If you are in Erbil for a layover, focus on the city center. Everything revolves
around one place-the old citadel and the bazaar right next to it.

### Erbil Citadel

ar. قلعة أربيل / 📌 Pin on Google Maps – [click here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/8GAqDM6D1oVekrTx8).

[The Erbil Citadel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citadel_of_Erbil) sits on a distinctive
mound right in the middle of the city – a place often cited as one of the longest
[continuously inhabited urban sites](https://www.kurdistan24.net/en/story/385522/Erbil-Citadel,-a-symbol-of-human-life%C2%A0)
in the world, with history reaching back to around the 5th millennium BCE. Most 
of what you see today dates to the 19th–20th century, but that „city-on-a-hill” 
atmosphere is still absolutely there. And it’s not just lokalna duma – in 2014 the
citadel was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as the historic heart of
Erbil.

When we visited in September 2025, the citadel itself was closed – so all we could
do was walk around it and take photos from the streets below. Even in that “from
the outside only” version, it’s absolutely worth coming here: from street level 
you get a great view of the long, continuous facades forming the citadel’s outer“
wall”, and the southern side spills naturally into the busy everyday life of the
city. Under normal circumstances, when the citadel is open, you’ll find several 
small museums inside (including the Kurdish Textile Museum, a traditional hammam,
and a few smaller exhibitions).

 [ ⌊Iraq, Erbil Citadel with fountain, a tall minaret and a central water fountain in a sunny courtyard.⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-citadel-main-photo.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Couple wearing sunglasses at Erbil Citadel in Iraq, overlooking a fountain-lined plaza and city buildings⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-citadel-003-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Iraq, Erbil Citadel: tall stone gate tower with arched entrance and security barriers under a clear blue sky⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-citadel-002-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Fountain and crowds in Citadel View to city, Iraq, with a clock tower and surrounding buildings⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-citadel-001.jpeg)

### Qeyserî Bazaar

ar. سوق القلعة القديم – بازاڕی قەیسەری / 📌 Pin on Google Maps – [click here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/aHvyhA6wwvYvTXLp8).

This is where “living” Erbil really begins. [Qeyserî Bazaar](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qaysari_Bazaar)
is a classic qaysari-type covered market – a maze of narrow corridors just south
of the citadel, where one corner smells of spices and tea, the next of fresh meat,
and the third is lined with fifty identical metal teapots hanging in a row. [The bazaar](https://www.kurdistan24.net/en/story/385688/Qaysari,-Erbil%E2%80%99s-oldest-local-market)
has been here since at least the 12th century: it was expanded in 1195 by Sultan
Muzaffar al-Din Gökböri as an extension of the citadel. Today it’s a dense network
of tin-roofed alleys where something happens in every direction – from goldsmiths
flashing their displays on both sides, to bakers whose bread scent carries down 
the entire street.

 [ ⌊Iraq, Erbil Qaysari Bazaar spice and sweets shop with shelves of jars, powders, and hanging lamps⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-qaysari-bazaar-001-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Iraq, Erbil Qaysari Bazaar interior with arched brick corridors, book stalls, and shoppers⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-qaysari-bazaar-003.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil Qaysari Bazaar market stall with colorful woven rugs, textiles, and hanging blankets on stone steps⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-qaysari-bazaar-004-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Gold jewelry displays and lantern lights inside Erbil Qaysari Bazaar in Erbil, Iraq⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-qaysari-bazaar-002-scaled.jpeg)

### Clock tower (Tawerî Katjmêr)

ar. تاوەری کاتژمێر / 📌 Pin on Google Maps – [click here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/r6UneYxqSmuNKkPS6).

Just a few steps from the bazaar you’ll find the square with the clock tower and
fountains – probably the most “postcard-famous” spot in Erbil. It’s a large open
plaza with rows of benches, lots of greenery, and several lines of fountains that
turn into a pretty photogenic show in the evening when the tower lights up.

 [ ⌊Iraq, Erbil Clock Tower featuring a tall brick clock tower with a large round face against a clear blue sky⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-clock-tower-001-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Woman posing by the Iraq Erbil Clock Tower fountain, with a tall minaret and arched walls behind her⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-clock-tower-002.jpeg)

### Jalil Khayat Mosque

ar. [جامع جليل الخياط](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jalil_Khayat_Mosque) / 📌 Pin
on Google Maps – [click here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/UkrXEHmSVHsTx1Dr8).

Jalil Khayat Mosque sits a bit further from the Citadel, along 60 Meter Street, 
but it’s definitely worth the walk or a quick taxi ride – it’s the largest mosque
in Erbil, built as a tribute to Jalil Khayat and completed in 2007 by his sons. 
Architecturally, it’s a mix of influences from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul and the
Muhammad Ali Mosque in Cairo: a large central dome, several semi-domes, two slender
minarets, and a whole lot of Abbasid–Ottoman decorative details that make the interior
genuinely impressive.

We ended up arriving on foot and happened to walk straight into a funeral – lots
of people, heavy foot traffic, and black mourning banners hung around the area with
information about the deceased. Because of the atmosphere and the crowd, we decided
to just observe the mosque from the outside rather than try to go in. Those black
condolence banners are actually a common sight in Iraq: they publicly announce someone’s
passing and often mention the person’s tribe, community, or sometimes a political
party or movement they were associated with. So this wasn’t an “exceptional situation”–
it’s simply part of the local way of marking a funeral in public space.

 [ ⌊Erbil Mosque in Iraq, featuring a grand arched entrance, intricate patterned facade, and two gold minarets⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-mosque-001-scaled.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil Mosque in Iraq, showing a large brick facade, arched entrance, and tall minarets under a blue sky⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-mosque-003.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Entrance of Iraq’s Erbil Mosque with ornate metal gate and banners with Arabic text.⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-mosque-004.jpeg)

 [ ⌊Erbil Mosque in Iraq, with a green tiled dome and ornate arched entrance with Islamic calligraphy⌉ ](https://warsawtravelers.pl/cdn-cgi/image/quality=80,format=auto,onerror=redirect,metadata=none/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/iraq-erbil-mosque-002-scaled.jpeg)

## Let’s keep going – next stop Baghdad

We left Erbil with a bit of a mindfuck feeling. This was nothing like the Iraq we
had imagined. The images we all carry from the news – tents, ruins, rockets overhead–
were sitting somewhere in the back of our heads. And suddenly you’re standing in
a perfectly normal city: a few residential and office towers, restaurants, traffic
jams, people heading to work. Every time we told someone we were going to Iraq, 
the reaction was the same: “But… why?” After this stop we already knew one thing–
this is a country that can flip your expectations 180 degrees.

If it weren’t for the expensive visa for the whole country, we’d probably be back
here pretty quickly. And honestly – even that cost starts to fade once you remember
how we felt on the ground. The care, the curiosity, that uniquely “pampering” Kurdish
hospitality… not once did we feel like someone was trying to scam us or take advantage.
The only real “warning moment” came when the hotel manager casually mentioned that
older motorcycles without proper security can be an easy target. In our case, with
a more modern bike and solid locks, we slept just fine.

Iraq landed very high on our “we’ll definitely come back someday” list. Maybe on
a future route through Jordan, maybe once things calm down in Syria — we’ll see.
This time, though, it was time to keep going. The thermometer showed 41°C, so we
decided it was the perfect moment to hop back on the bike and head towards Baghdad
XD. If you’re curious what our stay in the 🇮🇶 Iraqi capital looked like, check out
the next post. See you in the Iraqi part two.