{"id":13038,"date":"2025-10-13T16:44:47","date_gmt":"2025-10-13T14:44:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/?p=13038"},"modified":"2026-01-03T18:40:06","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T17:40:06","slug":"desert-horizons-2025-part-3-iraq","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/blog\/desert-horizons-2025-part-3-iraq\/","title":{"rendered":"Welcome to Iraq \u2013 a travel diary from Erbil to Baghdad"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"13038\" class=\"elementor elementor-13038 elementor-12331\" data-elementor-post-type=\"post\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-ca9baf7 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"ca9baf7\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-f0e60b6 elementor-toc--minimized-on-desktop elementor-widget elementor-widget-table-of-contents\" data-id=\"f0e60b6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;exclude_headings_by_selector&quot;:[],&quot;no_headings_message&quot;:&quot;No headings were found on this page.&quot;,&quot;minimized_on&quot;:&quot;desktop&quot;,&quot;headings_by_tags&quot;:[&quot;h2&quot;,&quot;h3&quot;,&quot;h4&quot;,&quot;h5&quot;,&quot;h6&quot;],&quot;marker_view&quot;:&quot;numbers&quot;,&quot;minimize_box&quot;:&quot;yes&quot;,&quot;hierarchical_view&quot;:&quot;yes&quot;,&quot;min_height&quot;:{&quot;unit&quot;:&quot;px&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;sizes&quot;:[]},&quot;min_height_tablet&quot;:{&quot;unit&quot;:&quot;px&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;sizes&quot;:[]},&quot;min_height_mobile&quot;:{&quot;unit&quot;:&quot;px&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;sizes&quot;:[]}}\" data-widget_type=\"table-of-contents.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-toc__header\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-toc__header-title\">\n\t\t\t\tTable of contents\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-toc__toggle-button elementor-toc__toggle-button--expand\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-controls=\"elementor-toc__f0e60b6\" aria-expanded=\"true\" aria-label=\"Open table of contents\"><svg aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"e-font-icon-svg e-fas-chevron-down\" viewBox=\"0 0 448 512\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"><path d=\"M207.029 381.476L12.686 187.132c-9.373-9.373-9.373-24.569 0-33.941l22.667-22.667c9.357-9.357 24.522-9.375 33.901-.04L224 284.505l154.745-154.021c9.379-9.335 24.544-9.317 33.901.04l22.667 22.667c9.373 9.373 9.373 24.569 0 33.941L240.971 381.476c-9.373 9.372-24.569 9.372-33.942 0z\"><\/path><\/svg><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-toc__toggle-button elementor-toc__toggle-button--collapse\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-controls=\"elementor-toc__f0e60b6\" aria-expanded=\"true\" aria-label=\"Close table of contents\"><svg aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"e-font-icon-svg e-fas-chevron-up\" viewBox=\"0 0 448 512\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"><path d=\"M240.971 130.524l194.343 194.343c9.373 9.373 9.373 24.569 0 33.941l-22.667 22.667c-9.357 9.357-24.522 9.375-33.901.04L224 227.495 69.255 381.516c-9.379 9.335-24.544 9.317-33.901-.04l-22.667-22.667c-9.373-9.373-9.373-24.569 0-33.941L207.03 130.525c9.372-9.373 24.568-9.373 33.941-.001z\"><\/path><\/svg><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div id=\"elementor-toc__f0e60b6\" class=\"elementor-toc__body\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-toc__spinner-container\">\n\t\t\t\t<svg class=\"elementor-toc__spinner eicon-animation-spin e-font-icon-svg e-eicon-loading\" aria-hidden=\"true\" viewBox=\"0 0 1000 1000\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"><path d=\"M500 975V858C696 858 858 696 858 500S696 142 500 142 142 304 142 500H25C25 237 238 25 500 25S975 237 975 500 763 975 500 975Z\"><\/path><\/svg>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-b1c683e elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"b1c683e\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<h2 class=\"p1\"><b>Hey there, fellow traveler!<\/b><\/h2><p class=\"p2\">This is already the third part of our little travel log \u2014 the unfiltered road stories, just as they happened. Turkey is behind us, and we\u2019re moving on: Iraq (Erbil, Baghdad), followed by a short stop in Kuwait. Fewer \u201cpostcard moments,\u201d more everyday reality \u2014 checkpoints and stamps, heat like from an oven, generators instead of power, friendly honks, and plenty of genuine kindness along the way.  <\/p><p class=\"p2\">This is still a road diary, not a guidebook. The places where we stayed longer and actually explored are covered in separate posts \u2014 there you\u2019ll find practical tips, maps, and local food worth hunting down. <\/p><p class=\"p2\">If this is your first time here, take a look at the previous parts:<\/p><ul><li class=\"p2\">\ud83d\udc49 Part 1 \u2013 <span class=\"s1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/blog\/desert-horizons-2025-part-1-europe\/\">From Poland to Turkey (first stage)<\/a><\/span><\/li><li class=\"p2\">\ud83d\udc49 Part 2 \u2013 <span class=\"s1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/blog\/desert-horizons-2025-part-2-turkey\/\">Turkey: Istanbul, Ankara, Cappadocia, \u015eanl\u0131urfa<\/a><\/span><\/li><\/ul><p class=\"p2\">And the whole mission control for the trip \u2014 the route map, partners, and all the stages \u2014 is right here: \ud83c\udfcd\ufe0f <span class=\"s1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/desert-horizons-2025\/\">Desert Horizons 2025 project page<\/a><\/span>. So, seatbelts fastened? Let\u2019s keep going.  <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c0c354b elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"c0c354b\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<h2 class=\"p1\"><b>Day 14: Thursday, September 11, 2025<\/b><\/h2><p class=\"p2\">\ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf6 <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/DHsuNG3U516412BeA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"><span class=\"s1\">Iraq, Erbil (Autonomous Region of Kurdistan)<\/span><\/a> -&gt; \ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf6 <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/xBJyW8rbN6DSKFaS8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"><span class=\"s1\">Iraq, Baghdad<\/span><\/a><\/p><p class=\"p2\">Greetings from Erbil. We covered yesterday in a separate post \u2014 if this is your first time here, check it out to read about where we ate, how we sorted out a physical SIM card, and what surprised us in the capital of the Kurdish region.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">Today, we\u2019re heading to Baghdad. And yes, we know \u2014 with these temperatures, we really should\u2019ve left at dawn. This habit of starting late will come back to bite us on the road to Kuwait, but more on that later. We carried the bags down to the garage, packed everything up, grabbed some water, and filled the tank before leaving the city (we couldn\u2019t find a gas station that accepted cards).<\/p><p class=\"p2\">A bit past Erbil, we hit the first checkpoint on the way to the federal part of Iraq. A checkpoint is simply a security control point run by the police or military \u2014 you slow down, show your documents, they might ask a few questions, and then you move on. The officers invited us into their booth, checked our passports and visas, handed us bottles of water, and told us straight up: if we ever feel something\u2019s not right, just call 911. That kind of thing really changes how you see the ride.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">If you\u2019re curious about what it\u2019s like to ride a motorcycle in Iraq \u2014 the road rules, what to expect at checkpoints, and what not to do \u2014 we\u2019ve covered it all in a separate post.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">We passed around six checkpoints along the way. Each one took maybe two to five minutes \u2014 passports, visas, sometimes a quick \u201cwhere from, where to.\u201d The closer we got to Baghdad, the heavier the traffic and the rougher the road. Speed cameras? Nowhere to be seen. At the final checkpoint before entering the city, we waited a bit longer, but only because they were getting us some water. A soldier leaning on his rifle looked like a scene straight out of a movie, and we definitely caught people\u2019s attention in the city \u2014 honks, waves, thumbs up \u2014 lots of friendly energy.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">We parked right under the security guard\u2019s watchful eye. The guys were keeping an eye not just on the hotel, but on our bike too, so we didn\u2019t feel unsafe at all.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">We skipped evening sightseeing today \u2014 ordered food through Talabat (shawarma, of course\u2026 what else, since it\u2019s basically been our main diet this whole month haha), and at a nearby grocery store, we even spotted Polish products. Seeing \u0141aciaty cream cheese in Baghdad honestly cracked us up a bit. \ud83d\ude05<\/p><p class=\"p2\">The power outages really caught us off guard. In practice, it works like this: the city grid cuts out quite often, so neighborhoods and hotels rely on their own or shared diesel generators. When the main power goes down, the generator kicks in. It keeps the lights and air conditioning running, but there\u2019s a downside \u2014 the noise and exhaust fumes can easily sneak into your room if the window\u2019s open.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">We cover this topic in more detail in our post about safety and travel logistics in Iraq \u2014 here we\u2019ll just say, don\u2019t be surprised if the hum of your air conditioner changes a few times during the night.<\/p><ul class=\"ul1\"><li class=\"li2\">\u231a\ufe0f <b>Travel time:<\/b> 5 hours 48 minutes;<\/li><li class=\"li2\">\ud83d\udee3\ufe0f <b>Distance: <\/b>365 km;<\/li><li class=\"li2\">\ud83c\udfcd\ufe0f <b>Average speed:<\/b> 75 km\/h<\/li><\/ul>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-bcd1d76 elementor-widget elementor-widget-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_gallery_masonry\" data-id=\"bcd1d76\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"qi_addons_for_elementor_image_gallery_masonry.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"qodef-shortcode qodef-m qodef-qi-image-gallery-masonry qodef-qi-fslightbox-popup qodef-popup-gallery qodef-image--hover-zoom qodef-qi-grid qodef-layout--qi-masonry qodef-items--fixed qodef-col-num--3 qodef-responsive--predefined\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-grid-inner\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"qodef-qi-grid-masonry-sizer\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--portrait\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-iraq-temporary-registration-scaled.jpg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-6\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"650\" height=\"1300\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-iraq-temporary-registration-650x1300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait\" alt=\"Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition document showing temporary registration of vehicle with stamps and signatures\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--landscape\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-026.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-6\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-026-1300x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape\" alt=\"Motorcycle cockpit at night during the Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition in Kurdistan, with navigation screens and cars ahead.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--landscape\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-025-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-6\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-025-1300x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape\" alt=\"Two riders wearing helmets in a street parking area in Kurdistan during the Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e70e4e9 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"e70e4e9\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<h2>Day 16: September 13, 2025, Saturday<\/h2><p>\ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf6 <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/xBJyW8rbN6DSKFaS8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Iraq, Baghdad<\/a> -&gt; \ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf6 <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/UuT17Y92wmdWn3AV9\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Iraq, Babylon<\/a> -&gt; \ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf6 Iraq, Baghdad<\/p><p class=\"p1\">The day before, we explored Baghdad on foot and with Careem (the local version of Uber). Before sightseeing, we rode the bike over to the <span class=\"s1\"><b><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/reel\/673070898593298\" rel=\"nofollow sponsored noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Hamraa Insurance office<\/a><\/b><\/span> \u2014 they were the ones insuring our motorcycle during our stay in Iraq. We chatted about local realities, got a few small gifts, filmed a short reel for them, and then headed out for \u201clunch\u201d. Calling it lunch is a bit of an understatement \u2014 Lebanese food came in full \u201cyou don\u2019t say no\u201d mode, and we definitely came back a few portions heavier.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">But back to September 13th \u2014 that day we made a trip to Babylon. Yes, that Babylon from history books, the one that always felt so far out of reach.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">On the way, we passed two or three smaller checkpoints, and right before entering Babylon province, we hit a bigger one where things took a bit longer. They invited us into an office \u2014 probably the local checkpoint chief \u2014 and started asking questions: if we had accommodation nearby, where we were from, and whether we were YouTubers. For a moment, I got chills, while Jadzia \u2014 as always \u2014 stayed totally calm.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">Using Google Translate, we explained that we were staying in Baghdad, didn\u2019t have luggage, and there was no point paying for an extra night.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">It all ended on a really warm note \u2014 group photos, a few fridge magnets with our Warsaw Travelers logo from us, and big smiles from them. At first, we had no idea what was going on or why, but it turned out to be nothing more than genuine curiosity and kindness.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">Along the way, we saw one of Saddam Hussein\u2019s former palaces from a distance \u2014 you can\u2019t go in, supposedly due to renovations. A shame, really, since we know some people manage to get photos there with a local guide \u2014 but we didn\u2019t have anyone like that with us. Too bad, because that was a real piece of history right in front of us.<\/p><p>Baghdad to Babylon:<\/p><ul><li>\u231a\ufe0f <strong>Travel time:<\/strong> 1 hour 47 minutes;<\/li><li>\ud83d\udee3\ufe0f <strong>Distance:<\/strong> 107 km;<\/li><li>\ud83c\udfcd\ufe0f <strong>Average speed: <\/strong>79 km\/h<\/li><\/ul>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5fc8f59 elementor-widget elementor-widget-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_gallery_masonry\" data-id=\"5fc8f59\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"qi_addons_for_elementor_image_gallery_masonry.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"qodef-shortcode qodef-m qodef-qi-image-gallery-masonry qodef-qi-fslightbox-popup qodef-popup-gallery qodef-image--hover-zoom qodef-qi-grid qodef-layout--qi-masonry qodef-items--fixed qodef-col-num--3 qodef-responsive--predefined\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-grid-inner\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"qodef-qi-grid-masonry-sizer\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--landscape\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-028.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-7\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-028-1300x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape\" alt=\"Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition group posing outside Iraq Baghdad insurance company building sign in Arabic\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--portrait\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-031-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-7\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"650\" height=\"1300\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-031-650x1300.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait\" alt=\"Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition flag over Baghdad, Iraq, against a clear blue sky\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--portrait\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-030-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-7\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"650\" height=\"1300\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-030-650x1300.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait\" alt=\"Motorcyclist posing beside an adventure bike in front of the Iraq Babilon gate at Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--square\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-029-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-7\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"650\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-029-650x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_square size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_square\" alt=\"Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition in Iraq Babilon: group poses with motorcycles and a uniformed officer outdoors.\" srcset=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-029-650x650.jpeg 650w, https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-029-148x148.jpeg 148w, https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-029-296x296.jpeg 296w, https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-029-1300x1300.jpeg 1300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 650px) 100vw, 650px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--landscape\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-027.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-7\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-027-1300x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape\" alt=\"taciaty naturally whipped cream cheese tubs in a display case at Iraqi grocery during Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d25128f elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"d25128f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p class=\"p1\">On the way back, we tried to reach Taq Kasra \u2014 the Arch of Ctesiphon. We took the backroads through smaller towns and accidentally got a bit too close to a military area. At one village checkpoint, they stopped us for about twenty minutes \u2014 we had to wait for someone higher up to approve our passage.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">In the meantime, the officers asked if we had everything we needed; for a moment, we thought they were asking us for money, but it turned out they actually wanted to give us some, just in case we were out of cash. They even offered us water. Absolute hospitality. In the end, we found out Taq Kasra was closed anyway, so we let it go and took the longer way back.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">In the evening, we took a walk along <b>al-Rasheed Street.<\/b> The first impression was a bit eerie \u2014 dim lights, lots of hanging cables, hardly any people \u2014 and then suddenly, the bright lights of <b>Zaza Caffe<\/b> made everything feel normal again. Soldiers were patrolling the area, waving to us, and once more someone offered us water. We\u2019ll share more about Baghdad itself \u2014 how to get around and the best spots to visit \u2014 in a separate post.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">Babylon to Baghdad:<\/p><ul class=\"ul1\"><li class=\"li1\">\u231a\ufe0f <strong>Travel time:<\/strong> 2 hour 57 minutes;<\/li><li class=\"li1\">\ud83d\udee3\ufe0f <b>Distance:<\/b> 133 km;<\/li><li class=\"li1\">\ud83c\udfcd\ufe0f <strong><span class=\"s2\">Average speed: <\/span><\/strong>57 km\/h<\/li><\/ul>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-18cc1c4 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"18cc1c4\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<h2 class=\"p1\"><b>Day 17: September 14, 2025, Sunday<\/b><\/h2><p class=\"p2\">\ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf6 <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/wzSZEq8U1dJeJdSr6\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"><span class=\"s1\">Iraq, Baghdad<\/span><\/a> -&gt; \ud83c\uddf0\ud83c\uddfc <a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/aqLM8o3ZEAQuwSHMA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"><span class=\"s1\">Kuwait, Kuwait City<\/span><\/a><\/p><p class=\"p2\">Leaving before noon was a huge mistake. The sun was blazing like an oven \u2014 43\u201345\u00b0C on the thermometer, and probably closer to 50 inside the helmet. The navigation counted the kilometres painfully slowly while we were melting inside our mesh gear. On both sides of the road stretched endless heaps of garbage \u2014 massive, unbroken strips of plastic that went on for hundreds of kilometres before the Kuwaiti border. The people in the country are incredibly kind, but that landscape of waste really gets to you.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">At one of the stops, some kids were watering the grass. A simple hand gesture \u2014 \u201cpass the hose\u201d \u2014 and a moment later, we got the cold shower we desperately needed. Jadzia felt the relief the most \u2014 the first signs of overheating had started to show, so we began stopping more often. The problem was, there was barely any shade to pull over into. Along the way, we passed bunkers and old military remnants \u2014 a clear reminder that this isn\u2019t your typical European highway.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">At a gas station where we were waiting for the fuel truck to arrive, someone brought us a whole bowl of fresh figs \u2014 not a few, a whole bowl \ud83d\ude02. Nice gesture, but what do you even do with that on a motorcycle? I don\u2019t eat figs, so Jadzia got the full gift set. She ate as many as she could, and we \u201cpassed on\u201d the rest \u2014 explained with hand gestures to some people in another car that it was a gift \u201cfrom us,\u201d and the bowl started making its way around between cars xD.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">But at another gas station, we ran into a small scam \u2014 a young guy at the pump claimed we were short by about 10 PLN for the fuel, which should\u2019ve set off a red flag right away. With that heat, though, we didn\u2019t have the energy to argue \u2014 oh well, lesson learned. A bit later, another kid started fiddling with our camera on the bike, and we had to chase him off.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">Two little incidents in a row like that do stick in your memory, though it\u2019s important to mention the bigger picture \u2014 nothing like that happened again during the rest of our stay in Iraq.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">Wherever you go, there will always be people who try to take advantage of a moment of distraction \u2014 the key is not to generalize and remember that these are exceptions, not the rule.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">Leaving Iraq took a while. Jadzia had to go through a personal check \u2014 I didn\u2019t. Passports were inspected, and a dog sniffed through the luggage. Pretty standard for a border, though it felt like the officers cared more about following \u201cprocedure\u201d than actually getting people through efficiently.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">Right outside the Iraqi passport control building, we were immediately surrounded by fixers \u2014 local middlemen who, for a fee, guide you through the process, tell you where to go, sometimes fill out forms, and help with translation. They charge for it \u2014 around 70 PLN for \u201chelp\u201d, which is quite a bit in local terms. We paid, and things moved faster.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">At the final step, another service dog \u2014 this one so overexcited he nearly tore open one of our roll bags, and completely shredded the suitcase of the guy behind us. Didn\u2019t look like he\u2019d actually found anything; more like pure enthusiasm\u2026 or lack of training.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-3bc647d elementor-widget elementor-widget-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_gallery_masonry\" data-id=\"3bc647d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"qi_addons_for_elementor_image_gallery_masonry.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"qodef-shortcode qodef-m qodef-qi-image-gallery-masonry qodef-qi-fslightbox-popup qodef-popup-gallery qodef-image--hover-zoom qodef-qi-grid qodef-layout--qi-masonry qodef-items--fixed qodef-col-num--3 qodef-responsive--predefined\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-grid-inner\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"qodef-qi-grid-masonry-sizer\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--landscape\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-034-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-8\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-034-1300x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape\" alt=\"Motorcycle dashboard showing 196 km and 44\u00b0C, with Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition in Iraq on road signage visible\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--landscape\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-033-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-8\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-033-1300x650.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_landscape\" alt=\"Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition: rider in helmet holding snacks on an Iraq on road stop beside tanker trucks\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"qodef-e qodef-image-wrapper qodef-grid-item qodef-item--portrait\">\n\t<div class=\"qodef-e-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"qodef-popup-item\" itemprop=\"image\" href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-035-scaled.jpeg\" data-type=\"image\" data-fslightbox=\"gallery-8\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"650\" height=\"1300\" src=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/desert-horizons-2025-road-035-650x1300.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait size-qi_addons_for_elementor_image_size_portrait\" alt=\"Desert Horizons Motorcycle Expedition at Iraq border departures and passport control sign with motorcycles nearby\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-53bfd10 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"53bfd10\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p class=\"p1\">On the Kuwaiti side, the atmosphere changed right away. First came passports and\u2026 coffee, tea, and some snacks \u2014 incredibly kind welcome. The bike went through an x-ray scan, while Jadzia was invited to an air-conditioned room for women (and only she got tea \u2014 a nice, though slightly mysterious, tradition). The heat still wasn\u2019t letting up, so that cool room felt like heaven.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">Then came the mandatory vehicle insurance. The officer spent a long time staring at our Polish registration certificate and decided to use\u2026 the Warsaw post office\u2019s ZIP code as the license plate number. An \u201cinternational\u201d document, yet entirely in Polish \u2014 no wonder it caused some confusion.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">We reached the hotel in the evening, completely wiped out. The bike was parked right by the entrance, the reception kept an eye on it, and we put out Jadzia\u2019s \u201cmeltdown\u201d with\u2026 Taco Bell. Instant recovery \u2014 good as new. We didn\u2019t worry about theft in Kuwait at all. Honestly, throughout the whole trip, those thoughts rarely crossed our minds \u2014 maybe a brief moment or two back in Serbia or Bulgaria, but that was it.<\/p><p class=\"p1\">We watched a few videos in the background, took a shower, and crashed. Tomorrow \u2014 sightseeing in Kuwait and our first real taste of everyday life here.<\/p><ul class=\"ul1\"><li class=\"li1\">\u231a\ufe0f <strong>Travel time:<\/strong> 10 hours 22 minutes;<\/li><li class=\"li1\">\ud83d\udee3\ufe0f <b>Distance:<\/b> 669 km;<\/li><li class=\"li1\">\ud83c\udfcd\ufe0f <b>Average speed:<\/b> 100 km\/h<\/li><\/ul>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-961c8ec elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"961c8ec\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<h2 class=\"p1\"><b>Time to relax in Kuwait<\/b><\/h2><p class=\"p2\">After that marathon of kilometres, we finally slowed down \u2014 Kuwait was our chance to catch our breath. A bit of city scenery, the bay, full-blast air conditioning, and the simple things that feel best after a long ride. This won\u2019t be an epic chapter \u2014 the next part will be shorter, just like the country itself \u2014 but the vibe definitely deserves its own page in our travel diary.<\/p><p class=\"p2\">If you\u2019re curious about what to see and how we spent our time in Kuwait City \u2014 where to go by the water, what to eat, and how to handle the little practical things \u2014 we\u2019ve got a separate post for that. This diary, though, is a different story altogether. And now, let\u2019s keep going \u2014 <span class=\"s1\"><span class=\"s2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/blog\/desert-horizons-2025-part-4-kuwait\/\">join us for the next part from Kuwait, this time a bit more relaxed and unrushed<\/a><\/span><\/span>. \ud83d\ude0a<\/p><p class=\"p1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/blog\/trip-cost-desert-horizons-2025-finances\/\">We also put together a full budget breakdown for the whole trip.<\/a> Kuwait even gave us one of the nicest surprises when it comes to fuel prices \ud83d\udcb8\ud83d\ude04<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Iraqi stage of our Desert Horizons trip \u2014 entering from Turkey into Kurdistan, then making our way through checkpoints and long stretches of road to Baghdad.","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12417,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[668,166],"class_list":{"0":"post-13038","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-blog","8":"tag-iraq","9":"tag-motorcycle-travels","10":"cs-entry"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13038","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13038"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13038\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/12417"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13038"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13038"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/warsawtravelers.pl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13038"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}