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Hey there, fellow traveler!
This is already the fifth part of our route from Poland to Oman — a few days in Saudi Arabia. The temperature was “only” 40°C (after Iraq’s 45, that actually felt like a relief), so the ride was easier, and we could finally take a breather from all the border crossings. Paperwork? None. No one asked for the Carnet de Passages, no questions about the notarial authorization for the bike. You’ve got a vehicle? OK. Passport — and off you go.
As always — this is a diary, not a guide. The specific places, maps, and prices will be in separate posts — here, it’s all about the road itself, the rhythm of the day, and everything that happens between the points on the map.
If this is your first time here, catch up on previous episodes:
- 👉 Part 1 – From Poland to Turkey (first stage)
- 👉 Part 2 – Turkey: Istanbul, Ankara, Cappadocia, Şanlıurfa
- 👉 Part 3 – Iraq: Erbil and Baghdad (plus entry into Kuwait)
- 👉 Part 4 – The border is behind us, Kuwait is ahead of us – a new chapter in the expedition
And a huge chapeau bas to our partners and family — without you, this journey simply wouldn’t have happened.
And the whole mission control — route map, partners, and all articles — is right here: 🏍️ Desert Horizons 2025 project page.
Day 21: Thursday, September 18, 2025
🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Buraydah -> 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Al-Ula
We woke up early, but at 4:30 neither of us had the heart to get on the bike. We had some “store-bought” croissants, packed up our bags, and hit the road around 9:00. The fatigue from the previous rides was catching up with us — that’s what happens when you try to see too much in too little time. For next time, five hours a day seems like the sweet spot, not seven to nine hours in the saddle.
The stretch to Hail was just a straight line on the map — road signs, trucks, and wind in the helmet. Highway-level boredom. First some music, then just the hum and silence. Coffee finished, so we kept rolling.
Before entering Saudi Arabia, we had bought an eSIM from one provider, but my phone ended up connecting to Zain, which had terrible coverage along our route — often barely 2G, with LTE or 5G showing up only occasionally. I was supposed to jump on a work call “on the road”, but with 2G, even MS Teams wouldn’t have a chance.
There wasn’t enough signal to send a regular text either, so I used the Garmin — sent a short satellite message to my colleague explaining the situation 😃. When I got back to Poland, I repaid him with a small alcoholic thank-you gift.
The ride itself was manageable — around 36–37°C. But once we entered Al-Ula, the thermometer jumped to 41–43°C, and the oven-like heat was back. We booked an apartment for the night, and only upon arrival did we find out there was no Wi-Fi. Oh well — had to buy an extra data package for the SIM card.
In the evening, we went out for coffee at Starbucks in Al-Ula’s old town. Really nice — surprisingly so, actually. During the day, with that kind of heat, the place is pretty much dead, but once the sun goes down, it comes alive. The proper sightseeing will have to wait until things cool off a bit.
- ⌚️ Travel time: 7 hours 30 minutes;
- 🛣️ Distance: 701 km;
- 🏍️ Average speed: 104 km/h
Day 25: September 22, 2025, Monday
🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Al-Ula -> 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Ha’il
Our time in Al-Ula came to an end. For the last night, we decided to try something different — sleeping in a camper. It was quite an experience since neither of us had done that before: a postcard-perfect night sky, total silence, and just the steady hum of the air conditioning. We’ve written a separate post all about our stay in Al-Ula — what we saw, where we ate, and how not to blow your budget in a place that can get pretty “luxury”. Check it out if you’re planning a visit.
We split the route to Riyadh into two days — simply because neither of us felt like doing another 10-hour ride. Instead of staying in Buraydah again, we picked Ha’il. The road was familiar — the same one we’d taken earlier to get to Al-Ula — so no surprises: steady, smooth, and… a bit boring at times. Saudi Arabia is beautiful, but those long distances can wear you down, especially when the horizon doesn’t change for hours.
We didn’t do any sightseeing this time — just passed a few spots we marked for “next time.” The goal for the day was simple: get there, grab something easy to eat, take a shower, and sleep.
- ⌚️ Travel time: 5 hours 22 minutes;
- 🛣️ Distance: 448 km;
- 🏍️ Average speed: 97 km/h
Day 26: Tuesday, September 23, 2025
🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Ha’il -> 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Riyadh
Leaving Ha’il was uneventful — quick packing and off we went. On the way, we took a 30-minute coffee break at a Starbucks in Buraydah; the staff asked, “From Poland? By motorcycle? Respect”. Well… yeah 😅.
The closer we got to Riyadh, the busier it got — traffic buzzing like an anthill and green-and-white flags everywhere. It was Saudi National Day — the anniversary of the country’s unification and the proclamation of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in 1932 by King Abdulaziz (the decree that renamed the Kingdom of Nejd and Hejaz to KSA). That’s why there were flags hanging from overpasses, giant flagpoles mounted on car tow hooks, and air shows over the city. They celebrate it every year on September 23rd — it’s a fixed date.
In the evening, we went out near our place for some Indian food. We asked for the mildest options possible. Well… let’s just say “mild” on the menu doesn’t mean “mild” in your mouth. 😆 Definitely different taste buds than ours — but hey, at least it was cheap! On the way back, we also sorted out some laundry; a nice reminder that we’re not traveling with a full wardrobe — just rotating a few outfits and washing every few days.
- ⌚️ Travel time: 7 hours 37 minutes;
- 🛣️ Distance: 662 km;
- 🏍️ Average speed: 98 km/h
Day 28: Thursday, September 25, 2025
🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Riyadh -> 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Edge of the World -> 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Riyadh
We probably should’ve done that trip a day earlier — on Wednesday, we were at BMW Motorrad for the service, and the bike was shining like it just rolled out of the showroom. After today’s off-road ride… yeah, not so shiny anymore.
Edge of the World it’s the rocky edge of the Tuwaiq escarpment, about 90–100 km from Riyadh — a sudden, sheer drop with vertical cliffs plunging hundreds of meters down. The last stretch isn’t paved — gravel, sand, washboard sections, and occasional rocks. We went there aiming for sunset, so after our morning work calls, we left around 2 p.m. The asphalt ended quickly, and then the rattling began. Those 20 kilometers took us almost an hour; our legs were burning, and all I could think about was the fact that we still had to ride back. At one of the viewpoints, I just told Jadzia straight: “I’ll enjoy the view from here — you go ahead. If anything happens, just yell”. 🤣
Along the way, we lost a few bolts from the pannier racks, but other than that, Stefan survived — well done, BMW. On the way back, we zip-tied whatever we could and pushed on, trying to make it back to the asphalt before dark. We made it, though the ride back was no less exhausting. The sunset was stunning — and the bike… once again, perfectly desert-colored.
Tomorrow, a long ride to the UAE awaits us. Work-wise, we’ve been keeping things organized, but our personal logistics? Let’s just say we sometimes handle them “on the go” — and today was a textbook example of that.
From Riyadh to the viewpoint and back:
- ⌚️ Travel time: 6 hours 9 minutes;
- 🛣️ Distance: 210 km;
- 🏍️ Average speed: 46 km/h
Day 29: September 26, 2025, Friday
🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia, Riyadh -> 🇦🇪 United Arab Emirates, Ghiyathi
This time we didn’t get up super early — the temperature was finally more “human”, so we hit the road around 10:00. Breakfast at McDonald’s, full tank, and off we went. The views… still not the most exciting, but the ride was nice and smooth. Most importantly — we weren’t sweating like after a shower anymore. Goodbye, “tired construction worker” aroma under the helmet xD
Leaving Saudi Arabia was quick — a short check to confirm we didn’t owe anything, and then a friendly “safe travels.” On the UAE side, things went smoothly too, right up until the last checkpoint, where a soldier pointed at our Insta360 on its mount. He thought we were recording. We showed him it was turned off. (Side note: in the Emirates, it’s best not to film checkpoints, infrastructure, or anyone in uniform — no need to invite trouble.)
Right after the border, we headed straight to Ghayathi. The asphalt was smooth as glass — literally — and the highway speed limit was 160 km/h. Traffic was light, so we covered the last stretch after dark.
- ⌚️ Travel time: 8 hours 31 minutes;
- 🛣️ Distance: 706 km;
- 🏍️ Average speed: 101 km/h
We’re going to Oman
We’re not going full tourist mode in the Emirates — this stop is just for sleep, a shower, and a mental reset before the final stretch. Besides, we’ve been here plenty of times before — check out our posts about what to see in Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, or Dubai 😃 Technically, we could’ve pushed through the Empty Quarter (Rub’ al Khali), but not in this weather and without proper prep. That “empty quarter” is a massive sea of sand — the largest sandy desert in the world. In summer, it gets hot enough to make you want to say, “excuse me, could you please turn down the radiator?”
Then there’s the practical side of things — I didn’t know that route well enough to take it without backup, and there are pretty much no places to sleep or refuel along the way (well… maybe one). After so many kilometres, we also caught a bit of the “comfort kick” — basically, the wisdom that sometimes it’s better to take the safer option and arrive in one piece. We still had plenty of pages left in our Carnet de Passages, so we chose the route through the Emirates instead. The Empty Quarter will have to wait — maybe someday, with cooler weather and a better plan. 😉
And now — the finale: the last chapter of our travel diary — crossing into Oman, the first kilometres, the mountains, the bay, and that feeling of closing the loop. Jump in and ride with us: Part 6 – Oman: the finale of the Desert Horizons 2025 journey.
