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Hello!
In August 2023, we set out on a motorcycle journey from Warsaw to Szczecin. Thanks to Krzysztof Jarzyna, the “boss of all bosses,” this city gained a bit more recognition. Our route took us through the scenic landscapes of northwestern Poland, offering beautiful views along the way. Finally, we reached one of the largest cities on the Oder River. Szczecin welcomed us with its unique atmosphere, intriguing architecture, and spots perfect for exploring by motorcycle.
Where is Szczecin located?
Szczecin, the capital of the West Pomeranian Voivodeship, is located in northwestern Poland, near the German border. The city sits along the Oder River and the Szczecin Lagoon, approximately 65 km from the Baltic coast. With a population of around 390,000 residents (as of 2023), Szczecin remains one of the largest cities in the country. Additionally, it plays a key role as an economic, cultural, and educational center for the region. Although recent years have seen a slight decline in population, the city continues to attract visitors with its unique atmosphere and convenient location, offering both natural escapes and urban attractions.
👉 To learn more, we encourage you to visit the official Visit Szczecin website, managed by the Szczecin City Council. On this site, you’ll find not only detailed information about attractions and events but also practical tips that will certainly make planning your visit easier. Click here and discover what Szczecin has to offer.
What did we drive to Szczecin?
We took our first motorcycle, a Yamaha Tracer 7. This journey quickly turned into a real test for us – we discovered that the Tracer was a bit too small and slightly uncomfortable. And we’re using bit very lightly here, as it was this trip that ultimately led us to upgrade to the larger BMW R1250GS. The comfort this model offers is incomparable – though it’s still far from the coziness of a living room sofa, the difference is truly significant. As you might read in our other posts, the BMW R1250GS allows us to enjoy an entirely new quality of travel.
Our route to Szczecin began in Warsaw. Initially, we took the A2 motorway towards Poznań; however, to avoid high toll fees, we exited the motorway just before reaching Poznań. Along the way, we made a stop in Września for our favorite kebab, which has become a small tradition on trips like these.
After a short break, we continued our route along National Road 24, heading west. The route took us through charming, less populated areas until we reached the entrance to the S3 expressway. From there, the journey was straightforward and quick – the S3 leads directly to Szczecin, providing a convenient route into the city.
How to get to Szczecin?
Szczecin, the capital of the West Pomeranian region, is well connected to the rest of Poland, offering a variety of commuting options:
🚗 By car or ️🏍️ By motorcycle
Several main routes lead to Szczecin. The A6 motorway, forming the city’s southern bypass, connects with Germany’s A11 motorway, allowing for a quick drive from Berlin. The S3 expressway links Szczecin to southern Poland via Gorzów Wielkopolski, Zielona Góra, and Legnica. To the east, the S6 expressway heads toward Koszalin and the Tri-City area. Alternatively, National Road 10 connects Szczecin with Bydgoszcz and Toruń. These routes make access to the city convenient for both car drivers and motorcyclists.
🚆 By train
The main train station is Szczecin Główny, offering direct connections to many Polish cities. Travel time from Warsaw is about 5 hours, from Poznań around 2.5 hours, and from Wrocław approximately 5 hours. International connections are also available, including a route to Berlin, which takes about 2 hours.
🚌 By bus
Szczecin also has a well-developed network of bus connections. Regular routes include domestic services from Warsaw, Poznań, Wrocław, and Gdańsk, as well as international routes to Berlin and other European cities. The main bus station is located in the city center, making it convenient for further travel within Szczecin.
✈️ By Airplane
Szczecin-Goleniów Airport, located approximately 45 kilometers from the city center, offers a limited number of international connections. As of the time of writing, there are only one or two such flights available daily. In contrast, there are three daily flights from Warsaw to Szczecin operated by LOT Polish Airlines. Considering the time required to reach the airport and complete check-in procedures, traveling by train may prove to be a more efficient option for many travelers.
What can we explore here?
During our visit to Szczecin, we explored several tourist spots that gave us a deeper insight into this unique city.
Piast Boulevard
Piast Boulevard is a must-see spot on Szczecin’s map for anyone wanting to experience the charm of the city’s riverside atmosphere. Stretching along the Oder River, the boulevard attracts both locals and tourists with its beautiful views of the water and the docked boats and ships. It’s an ideal place for a stroll, especially in the late afternoon when the setting sun casts warm hues on the water and buildings.
On the boulevard, you can find two restaurants offering a perfect spot to pause, enjoy local flavors, and take in the river views. It’s an ideal place to sit on the terrace, sip coffee, or have a meal while soaking in the peaceful riverside atmosphere.
Lasztownia
Łasztownia is a rapidly developing part of Szczecin, located across the Oder River from Piast Boulevard. Once a port district, it’s now a recreational hub, attracting both locals and tourists. One of Łasztownia’s standout attractions is the Ferris wheel, which offers breathtaking views of the city skyline and the river—a perfect spot for photos and a relaxing moment with panoramic views of the entire area.
Wały Chrobrego (Chrobry Embankment)
Wały Chrobrego is one of Szczecin’s most iconic spots, drawing both tourists and locals alike. Situated on a high embankment above the Oder River, these viewing terraces offer impressive views of the river, nearby boulevards, and the ships docked in the port. Designed in the early 20th century, Wały Chrobrego is a complex rich in architectural charm, featuring monumental buildings like the National Museum, the Provincial Office, and the Maritime University.
Strolling along Wały Chrobrego, you can admire the richly decorated facades of buildings, fountains, and sculptures that give this place its unique character. In the summer season, Wały becomes even livelier, hosting various cultural events and festivals. It’s an ideal spot to relax with a view of the Oder, especially in the evening when the entire city is bathed in the soft light of the setting sun.
Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle
The Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle in Szczecin is a significant historical and architectural landmark, tied to the Gryfit dynasty, who ruled Pomerania for over 500 years. Situated on a hill in the city center, the castle impresses with its Renaissance architecture and rich history, preserved within its walls for centuries. Although it was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times, the castle is now carefully restored and open to visitors.
Inside the castle, visitors can explore chambers, art galleries, and exhibition halls that showcase the history of Pomerania and its rulers. The castle courtyard is a popular venue for cultural events, concerts, and theater performances, giving the place a unique atmosphere. For those wishing to see Szczecin from a different perspective, there is also a viewing tower offering a beautiful panorama of the city and the Oder River.
Monument to Krzysztof Jarzyna from Szczecin – The boss of all bosses
During our visit to Szczecin, we couldn’t miss a unique attraction – the statue of Krzysztof Jarzyna from Szczecin, known as the “Boss of All Bosses.” This character, created by Edward Linde-Lubaszenko, gained cult status due to his charisma and memorable lines in the film Poranek Kojota (Kojot’s Morning). Krzysztof Jarzyna is portrayed as a fearless, uncompromising boss with significant influence, someone who commands both fear and respect. Although the film is a comedy, Jarzyna has become a symbol of Szczecin’s humor and a bit of its laid-back attitude.
The statue of Krzysztof Jarzyna is located on Łasztownia, near the “Szczecin” sign and the Paprykarz monument, making it easily accessible for visitors. It’s also an interactive art installation, allowing everyone to step into the role of Krzysztof Jarzyna, even if just for a moment. The sculpture depicts his silhouette with his signature dark sunglasses, behind which visitors can stand, creating the illusion that they are the “Boss of All Bosses”. It’s a perfect opportunity for a memorable photo with a uniquely Szczecin touch.
Additionally, it’s worth noting that the statue was created through an initiative by local residents and was funded as part of Szczecin’s Civic Budget. The unveiling took place on December 10, 2021—exactly 20 years after the premiere of Poranek Kojota. The project was designed by Ewa Bone and Ewa Kozubal, who creatively captured the character’s essence while encouraging visitors to interact with the installation.
Szczecin Sign
On Łasztownia, right by the waterfront, stands a large white “Szczecin” sign that has become a popular spot for souvenir photos. Although it’s not illuminated, it draws attention during the day with its simple, elegant design that contrasts with the surroundings. This photo spot is a must, allowing tourists to capture the city’s atmosphere in a clean yet striking frame.
Paprykarz Szczeciński
Paprykarz Szczeciński is a cult Polish food product that gained popularity as early as the 1960s. It’s a distinctive fish paste mixed with rice, tomato concentrate, and spices, packaged in recognizable cans. The name refers to the city of Szczecin, where the recipe was first developed. Over time, the product became a symbol of the city, and its taste evokes the seaside character of the region.
Moreover, in 2021, as part of Szczecin’s Civic Budget, a monument to paprykarz szczeciński was unveiled on Łasztownia. The monument features an impressive, large-scale replica of the iconic can, serving as a unique tribute to paprykarz and its significance in the city’s history. For both tourists and Szczecin’s residents, this monument has become an interesting attraction, reminding everyone of the area’s culinary heritage.
Emerald Lake
Jezioro Szmaragdowe is an artificial lake located in the Zdroje district of Szczecin, within the “Puszcza Bukowa” Landscape Park. It was created in 1925 when an old chalk and marl mine was flooded. The high calcium carbonate content in the water gives it a distinctive emerald hue.
The lake covers an area of approximately 2.85 hectares and is surrounded by picturesque beech forests. This setting makes it a popular relaxation spot for both residents and tourists. Numerous hiking trails and walking paths encircle the lake, offering opportunities to enjoy nature and unwind in a peaceful environment.
To reach Jezioro Szmaragdowe by public transport, you can take bus lines 64 or 66 and get off at the “Jezioro Szmaragdowe” stop. From there, a short walk will lead you to Kopalniana Street, where paths guide you toward the lake.
What do we recommend to eat?
During our visit to Szczecin, we had the chance to try local specialties at two unique places: Ziemniak i Spółka and Bar Pasztecik.
Ziemniak i Spółka is a restaurant specializing in potato dishes. The menu features a variety of offerings, from baked potatoes with various fillings to classic potato pancakes. We particularly recommend the baked potatoes topped with ingredients such as cheese, bacon, or vegetables. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service make every meal here a true delight.
Bar Pasztecik is a place with genuine tradition, renowned for serving pastries—deep-fried yeast dough filled with meat, cheese, or cabbage. It’s best enjoyed with a hot bowl of borscht, as together they create the perfect Szczecin duo! And is it healthy? Well, let’s just say that the deep oil adds depth of flavor… and the calories? They’re just having a good time!
Summary and return to Warsaw
We chose to return from Szczecin via Bydgoszcz. This route was interesting, but also demanding. The journey took nearly the entire day. After hours of riding the motorcycle, we were truly exhausted. This return trip was an important experience for us. As relatively new motorcycle travel enthusiasts, we came to a realization. The Yamaha Tracer 7 is great for shorter outings. However, it is a bit too small and uncomfortable for longer journeys with two people. This trip reinforced our decision to upgrade to a larger and more comfortable bike.
Szczecin definitely won us over, and we will surely return. We saw a few places, but we feel the city has much more to offer. Additionally, we need to add to our mug collection. This time, I hope we can get our hands on one from Starbucks!
