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Hello! 👋
After peaceful days on Koh Chang, it was time for Bangkok—a city that has always been synonymous with chaos, intensity, and contrasts. Skyscrapers towering over crowded streets, tranquil temples tucked away in hidden alleys—all of this creates the unique atmosphere of Thailand’s capital. But did Bangkok still retain this character during the pandemic?
It depends. The capital wasn’t completely empty, but it was clear that tourism had shifted its rhythm. In smaller towns and villages, tourists were almost nonexistent—there, the pandemic turned bustling areas into empty spaces. In Bangkok, however, they blended more into the daily flow of the local population. That is, if you could even call it a “crowd”, as the pandemic had also left its mark on the life of this bustling metropolis.
If you haven’t yet read about the earlier stages of the trip, I invite you to the first two parts of the recap:
- 👉 Phuket Sandbox – the first stage of my pandemic journey
- 👉 Koh Chang – a peaceful island at a special time
Did Bangkok retain its character? Partially, though in a different form. How the capital looked during these extraordinary times is something you’ll discover in the rest of this article. 😊
Where is Bangkok located?
Bangkok is the capital and largest city of Thailand, located in the central part of the country. The city sits along the Chao Phraya River, which flows into the Gulf of Thailand, approximately 25 kilometers south of Bangkok’s city center.
Bangkok is a key transportation hub in Thailand, connecting the country via road, rail, and air. The city’s main airport, Suvarnabhumi (BKK), handles both international and domestic flights, while Don Mueang (DMK) primarily serves low-cost airlines. Thanks to its strategic location, Bangkok serves as an excellent base for exploring the rest of the country.
How did I get to Bangkok?
I set off from Koh Chang by car, heading toward the capital. The journey began with a ferry crossing from the island to the mainland, followed by several hours of driving to Bangkok. Although the trip took some time, it offered the opportunity to take in a variety of Thailand’s landscapes along the way.
Leaving Koh Chang by ferry
I had purchased my ferry ticket in advance, which saved me from any extra hassle. I arrived at the designated time in the morning, and everything went smoothly. This time, having learned from my previous experience, I drove onto the loading ramp without any issues—you could say practice makes perfect. 😄
From the province of Trat driving
After disembarking from the ferry at Koh Chang, I continued my journey by car from Trat Province to Bangkok. The approximately 320 km route follows National Highway 3, commonly known as Sukhumvit Road. The road is in good condition, making the drive smooth and comfortable. The journey typically takes about 4–5 hours, depending on traffic and weather conditions.
My destination was Suvarnabhumi Airport, where I planned to return the rental car. I definitely wanted to avoid driving into central Bangkok—the idea of wasting time in traffic wasn’t particularly appealing. From the airport, I took the Airport Rail Link, which quickly and efficiently brought me to Ratchaprarop Station, conveniently close to my hotel. 😊
Accommodation
In my previous travel posts, I didn’t really mention accommodation prices, but during the pandemic, Bangkok’s rates were… ridiculously low. So, I decided to splurge and go for something upscale. I chose the five-star Berkeley Hotel Pratunam and paid just 335 PLN for three nights, including breakfast. Yes, for the whole stay! Looking at the prices for this hotel now, I can’t help but miss those times—at least from a budget perspective. 😅
The hotel itself? The room was great—spacious and comfortable—and the breakfasts were solid, though nothing overly fancy. The location in the Pratunam district was a big plus, especially if you enjoy shopping. The area is packed with markets and shopping malls, making it a shopper’s paradise.
What did Bangkok look like during the pandemic?
Bangkok, even during the pandemic, remained a city that operates at full throttle. After the tranquility of Koh Chang and the structured procedures of Phuket, arriving in this metropolis felt like diving headfirst into an urban jungle. The noise, the traffic, the constant hustle—it all hit me with double the intensity. My first thought? “Wow, there’s so much going on here!”
Of course, the pandemic had changed some things. Masks were an absolute must—everyone wore them, everywhere. Before entering shopping malls or restaurants, you had to go through routine temperature checks. Hand sanitizers? They were everywhere, as if someone had planted them alongside street food stalls. In some places, scanning QR codes was required, giving the city an even more digital vibe.
Despite these precautions, Bangkok retained its essence. Tourists—though far fewer in number—blended into the crowd of locals, giving the city a slightly different vibe. Compared to the silence of Koh Chang, here I felt that life was still moving forward, albeit at a somewhat altered pace.
What surprised me? Even during the pandemic, the traffic managed to embody the chaos that Bangkok is famous for. Tuk-tuks weaved through streams of motorcycles, cars were wedged in traffic jams for hours, and the air was filled with a mix of exhaust fumes and the aromas of food from street vendors. Bangkok was still Bangkok—even in a pandemic.
What was I able to see?
During my visit to Bangkok, I decided to focus on exploring the area around my hotel. I didn’t feel like trekking across the entire city, so I spent most of my time in shopping malls, which in Bangkok are almost like miniature cities—packed with shops, restaurants, and sometimes even cinemas or swimming pools. It was quite the contrast to the streets outside, which, in some places, were… well, far from perfect.
Just stepping outside for a walk was enough to encounter the grittier side of the city. Rats on the streets were a sight hard to ignore—and yes, it was just as unpleasant as it sounds. Add to that the chaotic traffic and general grime, and it was difficult to feel completely at ease, especially in the less polished neighborhoods.
I also gave Bangkok’s buses a try—and I must say, their condition took me back to the worst memories of Warsaw’s Ikarus buses from the ’90s. Hot, dirty, and lacking any sense of comfort. It’s definitely better to stick to the metro, which is modern, clean, and offers a way to bypass the city’s notorious traffic jams.
I also visited Chinatown, which, despite the crowd and chaos, offers an incredible atmosphere. Lanterns, narrow alleyways, and countless food stalls create a memorable vibe, even if the sheer number of sensory inputs can sometimes feel overwhelming.
Bangkok is a city that assaults all your senses—some people are captivated by it, while others find it exhausting. For me, it was a mix of both. I discovered things that fascinated me, but also aspects that left me discouraged.
I’m going back to Poland
Can I say I explored Bangkok? Definitely not. Thailand’s capital is so vast and diverse that one or two days barely scratch the surface of what the city has to offer. Truly getting to know Bangkok requires time—a lot of it. Leisurely sightseeing, uncovering hidden alleys, savoring food from street stalls—all of that wasn’t possible during such a short stay.
Despite the time and pandemic-related limitations, I was able to see how the city managed under these unusual circumstances. Bangkok, while still lively, seemed to operate at a slightly different rhythm. Precautions like masks, temperature checks, and sanitizers were part of everyday life. In a way, this trip gave me a unique perspective, allowing me to witness how different parts of the world adapt to a global crisis.
Traveling during a pandemic is an experience unlike any other—fewer crowds, more tranquility, but also certain challenges. Bangkok was just one stop on this journey, and looking back, I can say it was worth taking the time to visit, even if it left me wanting more. Maybe someday there will be a chance to return and explore it fully. 😊
Airport
My return to Poland was with Qatar Airways, with a layover in Doha. That transit in Qatar marked the beginning of an adventure I’ve detailed in a separate article about what the country was like just before FIFA 2022. Officially, I wasn’t allowed to leave the airport, but the thought of spending several hours waiting in a closed terminal wasn’t particularly appealing.
Risk it for the biscuit—I gave it a shot. I struck up a conversation at passport control, explained my situation, and maybe luck was on my side… because it worked! I managed to step out into the city. 😄
You can read all about this adventure, along with my observations about Qatar at the time, in the article available here. It was worth it—not just for the change of scenery, but also to catch a glimpse of a different side of the country before the big sporting event. 😊
